Around the Lakes in a Day

In Melbourne, they have a great cycling event called  Around the Bay in a Day. It's 210km for the basic route around Port Phillip Bay, and 2024 will be the thirtieth year of the ride! Us poor cousins here in Adelaide don't have a bay we can ride around; indeed, we no longer even have a community ride as a part of the Tour Down Under. But we do have some lakes. So, I went "round the lakes" in a day. It's not possible to get all the way around Lake Alexandrina­­—outside of some very illegal behaviour, but the idea of riding the Murray River barrages to do the full loop clearly appealed to one of the ferry operators, who was a bit disappointed to find I was not doing that!

My 24 hour 365 kms included fog over Willunga Hill, some most unpleasant "nowhere to hide" head winds, temperatures down to 3 degrees, and lots of glorious silent night. The sheer variety of Australian landscapes on this ride make it worth the effort, even without the lake circuit.

I left home just before 2am and took the Patrick Jonker Veloway down to Willunga. One noticeable thing about this early start was how quiet the bike way was compared to the normal day-time roar from the adjacent Southern Expressway! I've not noticed a similar early morning quiet on the Tapa Marthini Yala! (The Northern Expressway.) That road never sleeps.

Patrick Jonker Veloway at night

A quiet ride with Seaman Dan playing on the Aftershokz. The wind later in the day meant music was pointless.

Willunga Hill was wrapped in wet low cloud, but the climb kept me warm until Mt. Compass. Shortly after that, it was clear my padded gilet was not up to the task, and I swapped to a winter jacket with long sleeves. By Clayton Bay. I had the gilet back on, over the top. Summer is over.

Willunga Hill at 7.30am. Low cloud

Willunga Hill

This was all down to windchill, of course. It was 3°C at McLaren Vale, and I was just fine in a gilet. But 10°C at Ngangkita was freezing thanks to a cross breeze. Well under 20 kph, it still chilled me right down.

The lake country, and the B1 Highway along the Coorong, can be brutal when it comes to wind. The wind was up by the time I reached Wellington—not much above 25kmh, but I was headed directly into it for 42km of character building patience, in fairly heavy traffic, to reach Meninge.

Vines, Eucalypts, Pine Forest near Ngankita

These vines have not been picked this year. A small strip of remnant Eucalyptus sits between these vines at Ngankita and the beginning of Kuipto Forest's Radiata pines.

Clayton Bay view of the lake

Clayton Bay

Lake Alexandrina

Lake Alexandrina. It looks like the sea. It's about 251 square miles in area. Shortly after this photo, I began to see white caps, a sure sign I was soon up for difficult winds.

Langhorne Creek Vineyard

This vineyard is barely a kilometre away from the dry country around Lake Alexandrina. The bitumen turns inland here before heading east to Wellington.

20240409cows

It's milking time. The cows bring themselves in, and it's likely that the dairy is automated as well. My grandfather used to run a dairy at Jervois, not far from here, and he had a favourite trick for city visitors. Around milking time, he would call the dog to attention, and say, "Rover, go down the swamp and get the cows for milking. But leave the ones that haven't calved yet. I don't need them." And the visitors would see Rover apparently do just this when, all the time, the cows were going to come up on their own anyway, and the ones in calf were not going to bother. People were always very impressed!

Crossing the River Murray at Wellington

The view from the Wellington Ferry. Note that there is only a small servo at Wellington with limited hours and limited food.

View from the road to Meninge

Sandhills south of Wellington

By Meninge, the wind had begun to ease with the sunset, but I still changed into extra socks and booties, and replaced the gilet with my all-night coat. By the time I arrived at Mannum, I was about ready to shove the gilet back on underneath the coat! Meningie was the last convenient stop for water until Tailem Bend, so I topped up a spare water bottle in my trunk bag. (I had no idea what might be at Narrung or Wellington around midnight, and no desire to risk someone's Alsatian finding out, but Tailem Bend has a 24 hour OTR.) I was joined by an 8-year-old boy who was quite fascinated by this filling of bottles and changing of clothes, much to the embarrassment of his mother!

Meninge foreshore

Looking out over Lake Albert from the Meningie foreshore. This route does go right around Lake Albert.

Map of the lakes route

The ride across to the Narrung Ferry was glorious: Little wind, fast, and no traffic. By the time I reached the main highway just north of Ashville, the traffic there had died off as well. It was due north to Mannum from there, so that any of the south breeze that remained was in my favour. This back road to Mannum has a couple counter intuitive intersections, so good map reading or a GPS are advised 😊 It's easy to go to Bow Hill, instead.

Night view from the Narrung Ferry

This narrow ferry crossing at Narrung gets you across Albert Passage, which connects Lake Albert to Lake Alexandrina. For preference I would have gone anti-clockwise around Lake Albert, because the lake views between the B1 and Narrung are gorgeous.  It would have helped with the wind too, but also would have meant arriving very late at night in Meningie. I felt like a warm tea was more important. 😊

And... when you reach the east side of the Mannum ferry crossing in the middle of the night, and find the big sign that says the ferry is shut!!! ... just go a little further south and you'll find the second ferry still running. I always forget, and have a moment of horror!

Stats
Distance: 365km
Time: 24:20, Moving: 19:45, Stopped: 4:35
Moving Average: 18.5kmh, Real Average: 15.02kmh

Map of the whole route

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